Winter Weeds in Texas

There is no season of the year anywhere in Texas we can escape weed infestations. Surprising as it may seem, many weeds like Fig. 1 and others like tansy mustard, London rocket and the cheat and brome grasses are adapted to and initiate their life cycle in the winter. As noted about small weeds in the early summer (TAM—AAMM, July 10, 2023, “The weeds are so small—it’s too early to spray. Not!”), the same principle applies to small winter weeds. In fact, small weeds in the winter can be even more challenging because the farmer and rancher mindset is “It is cold(er).” Weeds surely aren’t a concern at this time of year.

In the immediate moment, many weeds are not a problem now. But as the spring warms weed growth takes off. They are not small anymore. And with increasing size, whether due to larger vegetative growth or entering reproductive stages (Fig. 2), weeds become more difficult to control. Higher herbicide rates may be required. And the effectiveness of herbicides will decline due to larger, tougher weeds.

Assessing Weed Potential Now for Later Winter Control

Small weeds can be deceptive. “They are so small let them get larger so they can absorb more herbicide.” But again, the general rule of thumb is the smaller the weed the easier it is to control. In fact, lower herbicide rates may be sufficient for effective control. This represents cost savings.

For many small broadleaf winter weeds as we approach late winter, low rates of 2,4-D or dicamba are sufficient for control. The possible residual on row crop ground is not a concern due to a month of more before planting. And these will not harm dormant grasses.

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Weed Scientists

Numerous A&M Extension faculty (including Range Management), staff, and IPM agents conduct a wide variety of research weed control projects. But here are the lead weed science experts for Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.

• Dr. Scott Nolte, associate professor and state Extension weed specialist, College Station, [email protected], (979) 321-5934.
• Dr. Pete Dotray, professor and Extension/Research weed specialist, Lubbock, [email protected], (806) 746-6101.
• Dr. Josh McGinty, associate professor & Extension agronomist/weed science, Corpus Christi, [email protected] (361) 265-9203.
• Mr. Zach Howard, Extension program specialist II weed science, College Station, [email protected], (979) 321-5928.

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Proper tree planting for more ‘fruitful’ results

Establishing fruit trees in Texas takes some effort, but these time-tested tips from a Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service expert can guide the way.

Larry Stein, Ph.D., professor and Regents Fellow in the Texas A&M Department of Horticultural Sciences and AgriLife Extension fruit specialist, Uvalde, said now is the time to plant, and homeowners should choose the right tree and take the correct steps to establish and care for their fruit trees in the first critical years.

Winter is the time to plant most fruit trees

When it comes to fruit trees, Stein said to plant in late December through February. The key is that trees be totally dormant at the time of planting.

Planting trees in early winter helps them establish some root growth before they break dormancy in the spring, Stein said. That initial root growth can make a big difference during harsh summer conditions.

“When people plant their fruit trees in the early spring, they may struggle because they haven’t initiated good root growth to help them absorb moisture and nutrients during a stressful summer,” he said.

Stein said while the late December through February time frame for planting works for peaches, pears, figs and other fruit trees, he does not recommend it for planting citrus trees due to the danger of freezing. For those, he recommends planting in March or April — when the chance of frost has likely passed.

Deciding what fruit tree to plant

Stein suggests referring to the Aggie horticulture fruit site when choosing varieties for planting. The site contains comprehensive fact sheets on different trees and gives fruit tree variety recommendations based on location.

Once you’ve narrowed the options, visit a reputable tree nursery and choose a medium-sized tree – 3-5 feet tall – so the recommended cutback at planting is less severe, Stein said.

“I prefer planting bare-root fruit trees rather than container trees as they are less expensive and will grow better,” he said. “The challenge is that bare-root trees are getting harder to find.”

Also, be sure to inspect the tree for injury or signs of stress — and don’t accept a subpar tree, he said.

Where to plant fruit trees

Poor draining soil can cause problems for fruit trees, Stein said. Low spots or areas that stay saturated are poor transplant locations.

“You want well-drained soil and not a spot where water collects,” he said. “That can drown the tree.”

Stein also recommends placing the tree on the north side of the property so it stays cold during dormancy and remains dormant longer.

“Plant fruit trees in an area where they will avoid late-day sun, which can contribute to earlier bud breaks,” he said. “You want the tree to stay dormant as long as possible to avoid tree or fruit damage from any potential late-spring freezes.”

How to plant fruit trees

Before planting, knock off the soil around the tree’s roots, which, in container trees, typically includes peat moss and perlite or a light mix. Bare-root trees will not have any soil around the roots. Inspect the roots and cut them back if they are wrapped around the root ball to prevent the tree from becoming rootbound.

Dig a hole the size of the root system, typically 12-18 inches across, Stein said. Dig it deep enough to plant the tree so that its root collar — the distinct line where the stem meets the root ball — is level with the ground.

Fill in the hole with the original soil, Stein said. Water the tree well to settle the soil around the roots, and then cut the tree back hard.

He said to be sure to cut the trees back hard at planting as doing so will greatly improve tree livability

In the case of pecan trees, cut them back to 42 inches with all side branches removed to the main stem. Fruit trees should be cut back to 18-24 inches and all limbs cut back to the stem.

Weed- and grass-free zone

Stein also recommends clearing weeds and grass from around fruit trees for at least the first five years. This reduces competition for water and nutrients critical for the tree’s development.

Kill out or manually remove weeds and grass within a 2- to 3-foot diameter circle around the tree, he said.

“Use glyphosate or another herbicide that will kill all grasses and broadleaf weeds to the root,” he said. “You want bare soil around the tree to minimize competition for the tree, but make sure the herbicide does not contact tree leaves.”

Stein said grow tubes or aluminum foil may be used to keep the herbicide off the tree’s trunk when chemicals are applied. After the first year, mulch can be added within the circle to help weed control.

Avoid killing it with kindness

After proper transplanting, cutback and weed eradication, it’s important to leave the tree alone until it starts to grow, Stein said.

“It’s important to just let the tree do its thing. Most people kill trees with kindness at that point,” he said. “Overwatering is probably the No. 1 cause of death. Trees don’t need much water while inactive. They can go 4-6 weeks without water when dormant, and normal rain usually provides the needed moisture.”

When the tree begins growing, keep it well-watered — typically once a week with 1 inch of water, depending on soil type, Stein said.

“When the tree is first planted, the water needs to be placed right around the tree,” he said. “As the tree grows, the roots move away from the tree. We think the best roots start at the canopy edge or drip line and go out about one and a half times the tree’s height.” 

Fertilize, fertilize, fertilize

In May, after the tree shows 8-10 inches of growth, fertilize it with a cup of ammonium sulfate with 21% nitrogen. Organic 3% fertilizer can be used but apply 7 cups to reach the 21% nitrogen requirement.

Water in the fertilizer 12-18 inches from the trunk of the tree, he said.

“The soil berm and weed-free zone can be useful to let you know where to spread the fertilizer,” he said. “You might want to put the fertilizer outside the berm to ensure it’s not too close to the trunk.”

Stein said to continue to water and weed around the tree and ramp up the fertilization regimen in year two with a cup of fertilizer in March, April, May and June. In year three, double the fertilizer regimen with 2 cups of ammonium sulfate in those months to push the tree’s growth.

“Follow this regimen, and you will be amazed at the tree you can grow in three years,” he said.

Provide a half pound of 21% fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter at bud break in subsequent years for the life of the tree, Stein said. Give the tree another half-pound of fertilizer in May if it shows a fruit crop. Do not apply the second round of fertilizer if the tree is not showing fruit.

“Those are the recommendations for the life of the tree,” he said. “There are variety-specific training and pruning regimens we recommend in the fact sheets, and you’ll need to be aware of potential seasonal disease and pest issues, but that is a good start to successfully establishing fruit trees in Texas.”