Some gardeners might have noticed their tomatoes splitting after the rains from Hurricane Beryl and tropical storms left parts of the state waterlogged and others with much-needed moisture.

Watering and harvesting gardens are two issues gardeners throughout the state continuously deal with as they try to maximize their production. They often do not understand how environmental conditions affect their tomatoes.

“While some people think the rains cause tomatoes to split, it is actually inconsistency in soil moisture levels that is the problem,” said Larry Stein, Ph.D., Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service horticulture specialist and professor in the Texas A&M College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Department of Horticultural Sciences, Uvalde.

“When you get a big rain, but the plant has had uniform water, it’s not going to affect the fruit that much,” Stein said. “Whereas, if you’re dry and you get a big rain and an influx of water to the tomato, you will get the split on the stem end.”

All is not lost, though. Split tomatoes are still edible so long as the fruit hasn’t started to degrade and pests haven’t gotten to them, he said. Pick them, bring them inside and let them finish ripening. When ready to use, just cut out the split part.

And while radial splitting is most common, Stein said tomatoes can also split on the sides. Some gardeners feel that the split affects the taste, which is plausible when considering it has come from an influx of water into the fruit.

Pick tomatoes sooner rather than later

“There’s no need to leave tomatoes on the vine longer than necessary,” Stein said. “You risk pests getting to them, damage to the fruit as well as increase the odds of splitting.”

Tomatoes can be picked as soon as they “turn” or “break.” These terms allude to the color change and mean that as soon as tomatoes start transitioning from green in color, they can be plucked from the vine and allowed to ripen inside.

Once a tomato begins to turn, it will continue to ripen whether on or off the vine. Depending on the stage when picked, this process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. The taste is not affected by allowing them to ripen on your kitchen counter or pantry instead. Tomatoes can also be put in the refrigerator to pause the ripening process.

If a tomato starts to leak — split or not — it needs to be disposed of.

When to pick produce

Two rules when it comes to okra, peas, peppers, cucumbers and squash: pick often to maintain production, and bigger is not always better, Stein said. It is best to harvest at peak quality as opposed to maturity.

While varieties vary, typically, 3-4-inch okra pods have superior quality to larger ones.

The same is true with peppers, both hot and mild. Bell peppers can be harvested when totally green, though some prefer to pick them when they have color, typically red or yellow.

Southern peas are best harvested when the pods are plump with the pea but still green or purple. The peas need to be large enough so the pod can be easily shelled. Stein said if you prefer dry peas, then obviously, you would let the pods dry until brown.

If you still happen to have cucumbers and squash producing, pick these vegetables when immature and tender. Larger is definitely not better in this case.

Stein also advised removing any spent garden crops like squash, cucumbers and green beans to get ready for fall.

August garden tips

Stein provided tips for other areas of the landscape and gardens moving into August, including:

• If you are not under water restrictions, continue to maintain good water for ornamentals and summer-blooming plants. Evaluate the volume of water delivered from lawn sprinklers to ensure healthy, stress-free grass during the summer heat.
• Be on the lookout for chinch bugs.
• Water is crucial this month for the pecans to fill. Watch for key pests including shuck worm, black aphids and pecan weevil.
• Oak trees can be pruned but remember to paint the wounds.
• By mid-to-late August, many fall vegetable seeds and even small plants may be set out for later production. Be careful to give these young plants extra water and a little shade while they are establishing. The result will be excellent cool-season garden produce.
• Shear roses for fall bloom. Prune out dead canes and any weak, brushy growth. Cut back tall, vigorous bushes to about 30 inches. After pruning, apply fertilizer, and water thoroughly.
• Shear perennial shrubs for compact growth and more blooms. Trim off faded flowers on crape myrtles and vitex to encourage later re-bloom. Picking flowers frequently encourages most annuals and perennials to flower more abundantly.
• Keep thinking ahead by sowing seeds of snapdragons, dianthus, pansies, calendulas, and other cool-season flowers — in flats or in well-prepared garden areas — for planting outside during mid-to-late fall.

Plant of the month: crape myrtles

Stein said the crape myrtle is his “plant of the month” partly because their bloom has been spectacular to date.

“If your particular plant has produced seed pods, these should be removed to stimulate further bloom,” Stein said. “Now is also a good time to visit the nurseries to see the various colors and sizes that are available.”

Depending on where you live in Texas, some crap myrtles are better suited than others. The crape myrtle you select should have the specific characteristics you want, so think beyond just selecting for a color. Many different types of crape myrtles are available in similar shades.

“We challenge you not to commit crape murder come winter when many folks cut the plants severely to reduce plant size,” Stein said. “It is far superior to select the variety with the proper height you desire and let the plants grow naturally.”