Watering
Many people consider watering one of the most enjoyable jobs in the garden. However, many gardening problems—including diseases, bitter fruit, poor fertility, poor quality, sunscald, and poor yield—can be related to improper watering.
Do not water lightly several times a week, which causes poor root development. Instead, water thoroughly, soaking the soil to a depth of 6 inches, and only when the plants need it. An inch or two of water applied once a week is usually enough for most vegetable gardens in Texas.
Determine when to water by examining the soil, not the plants. If the soil surface appears dry, scratch it to a depth of 1 inch to see if the soil is moist. If so, do not water. If the soil is dry at a depth of 1 inch, it’s time to water.
Light, sandy soils drain quickly and must be watered more often than heavy clay soils, so check sandy soil more often.
One of the best ways to water a garden is with a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation controls the application of water by releasing it slowly over a long period. When the rate of drip irrigation is adjusted correctly, there will be no puddles, runoff, or saturated soil.
When buying a drip irrigation system, look for one that can be adapted to your garden’s size and shape. The hose will need to be placed along each row to irrigate the plants’ root zones.
Harvesting fall vegetables
To get the best results from your garden, harvest produce properly and at the right time. Below are some tips to help you.
Beans, snap: For maximum tenderness, harvest beans before maturity when the pods are not completely full. Wash and refrigerate them immediately.
Beets: Pull early beets when they are about 2 inches in diameter. Larger beets are woody, especially in warm, dry weather. Remove all but about 1 to 1½ inches of the tops. Wash and refrigerate them immediately.
Broccoli: Harvest broccoli heads when they are firm, compact, and 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Determine the maximum size by watching the floret development. Broccoli heads are composed of many individual flowers called florets. The head is as large as it will be when the individual groups of florets begin to loosen, emerge from the surface of the head, and are not tightly clustered. Cut the stalk below the head, leaving 8 to 10 inches of stem and attached leaves. Chill the heads immediately.
Brussels sprouts: Harvesting usually begins 3 to 3½ months after transplanting. Early sprouts should be picked several times, taking the lowest on the plant each time; otherwise, they will open and become yellow. The first harvest should occur before the lower leaves begin to turn yellow; otherwise, the sprouts will toughen and lose their delicate flavor.
When picking Brussels sprouts, break off the leaf below the sprout and then remove the sprout by breaking it from the stalk. As the lower leaves and sprouts are removed, the plant continues to push out new leaves at the top, and new buds, or sprouts, are formed. Remove all lower sprouts, even those that do not make solid little heads.
Cabbage: Cabbage is mature and as large as it will get when the head becomes solid and the sides or top cannot be pressed in with the thumb. Mature heads often split open.
To delay the harvest of mature cabbage yet prevent this splitting, twist the entire plant slightly to break several roots. The breakage will reduce the uptake of water from the soil and delay splitting.
Cauliflower: Harvest cauliflower heads when they are firm, compact, and 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Like broccoli, the heads are as large as they will get when the individual groups of florets begin to loosen and emerge from the head. To harvest cauliflower, cut the stalk just below the head.
The yellowish color of the cauliflower surface is caused by exposure to sunlight. To prevent discoloration, when the small bud head appears in the center of the plant, draw the lower leaves of the plant loosely over the bud in a tent-like fashion. Tie the leaves together with a string or rubber band.
The leaves of cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts also can be harvested and eaten as greens.
Carrot: There are many varieties of carrots with different potential sizes and lengths. Most mature fully within 60 to 85 days but can be harvested earlier.
The crown size can indicate maturity. The crown, where the foliage attaches to the root, is usually at least 3/4 inch in diameter when the carrot is mature. Another test for maturity is to pull the largest carrot and examine the bottom or growing tip. If the tip is orange, the carrot is mature. If the tip is white, the carrot is still growing.
There is no need to harvest the carrot crop all at once. Carrots can be left in the ground for several weeks after they mature. In fact, the best place in Texas to store carrots is in cool garden soil.
Cucumber: Harvest cucumbers when they are bright, firm, and green but before they get too large. About 1 to 2 inches in diameter is right, with the smaller size best for pickling.
Discard all nubbins (small, undeveloped cucumbers), and poorly shaped or light-colored fruits. If possible, do not store cucumbers in the refrigerator for more than 2 days. It is best to pickle cucumbers the same day they are picked.
Greens: Harvest greens while the leaves are young and tender and before they start turning yellow or brown. Slight bronze tints are normal on mustard greens. Avoid wilted or flaccid leaves. Wash and chill them immediately.
Peppers: Harvest peppers when they are 4 to 5 inches long and have full, well-formed lobes. Immature peppers are pale, soft, pliable, and thin fleshed. Wash and chill the peppers immediately.
Spinach: Harvest spinach when six or more crisp, dark green leaves have formed. Wash them gently and chill immediately. Cut the leaves from the plant to encourage re-sprouting.
Squash: Harvest yellow crookneck squash when it is 4 to 6 inches long; harvest yellow straight-neck squash when it is 6 to 9 inches long; and harvest white scallop squash when it is 3 to 4 inches in diameter. A glossy color indicates tenderness.
Wash, dry, and store squash in a warm area of the refrigerator. Like cucumbers, squash is susceptible to chilling injury and should not be stored for more than 2 days.
Tomato: Harvest tomatoes at the pink stage and ripen them in a warm area of the house. Harvesting at this time will not affect flavor, and it may prevent damage by insects and birds.
LAWN FERTILIZATION IN TEXAS
Fertilizer Applications
Timing and distribution of fertilizer applications, as well as rate of application, are important considerations in a lawn fertilization program. Timing applications to corresponds to grass requirements rather than to the convenience of the homeowner can reduce maintenance problems (figure 1). Generally, spring and fall fertilizer applications are adequate for St. Augustine lawns. (Refer to map and calendar for approximate dates.) Figure 1. Approximate dates for fertilizer applications in various regions of Texas.
In early spring there is usually enough residual nitrogen to maintain grass through several mowings. The first application of fertilizer should be made after the second or third mowing.
If the lawn appears vigorous and healthy at that time, delay the first application until May. In the absence of soil test information, apply a fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 2-1-1 ratio at a rate equivalent to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
Bermudagrass lawns require supplemental applications of nitrogen at 45- to 60-day intervals between spring and fall fertilizations. These applications should not exceed 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application. .Occasionally, St. Augustine grass may need a supplemental application of nitrogen to enhance color during the summer. Use organic or slow-release nitrogen sources on lawns during the summer. Summer fertilization of St. Augustine grass growing in moderate shade should be avoided because of increased disease activity.
St. Augustine lawns may require periodic applications of iron sulfate or iron chelate to prevent iron chlorosis. A foliar application of iron sulfate at a rate of 6 to 8 ounces per 1,000 square feet effectively eliminates the symptoms of iron chlorosis. These applications may be needed several times during the growing season.
Iron chelates should be applied according to the manufacturer’s directions. (Refer to publication L-435.)
Fertilizers can be distributed with a broadcast (cyclone) or drop-type spreader. Uniform distribution is essential to prevent light and dark streaks across the lawn. For better distribution, divide the fertilizer to be applied into two equal lots. Apply one lot lengthwise and the other crosswise over the lawn (figure 2).
Fall Fertilization
Fall fertilization is the key to prolonging fall color and promoting early springs recovery of lawns. It also helps to produce a dense turf which resists winter weeds. Fertilizers used in the fall should be high in nitrogen and potassium and low in phosphorus. A 2-1-2, 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 analysis is preferred over a balanced fertilizer such as a 12-12-12 for fall application. Grass fertilized in the fall with nitrogen and potassium have shown greater survival during winter months and faster spring recovery than grasses fertilized with high phosphorus materials in the fall.
Avoid using straight soluble nitrogen fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate or urea during late fall because they increase the susceptibility to disease and winterkill.
Make fall applications in September for Regions 1, 2 and 3 (see map) and in October for Regions 4 and 5. Application rates should not exceed 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
Type of Fertilizer
Choice of the type and grade of fertilizer material to use depends on soil test recommendations. Table 1 shows some analysis, ratios and equivalent applications rates of various fertilizers. In every fertilizer analysis (such as 12-4 8), the first number represents the percent nitrogen (N), the second number represents the percent phosphorus (P2O5) and the third number represents the percent potassium (K2O).
Table 1. Nutrient content and equivalent rates of application of some commercial fertilizers.
|
Fertilizer analysis |
Ratio of plant food nutrients |
Nutrient content (%)1 |
Amount to apply to get 1 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. |
||
|
Nitrogen |
P2O5 |
K2O |
|||
|
8-8-8 |
1-1-1 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
12 lbs. |
|
12-12-12 |
1-1-1 |
12 |
12 |
12 |
8 lbs |
|
5-10-5 |
1-2-1 |
5 |
10 |
5 |
20 lbs. |
|
10-20-10 |
1-2-1 |
10 |
20 |
10 |
10 lbs. |
|
12-6-6 |
2-1-1 |
12 |
6 |
6 |
8 lbs. |
|
10-5-5 |
2-1-1 |
10 |
5 |
5 |
10 lbs. |
|
6-10-4 |
3-5-2 |
6 |
10 |
4 |
16 lbs. |
|
16-20-0 |
4-5-0 |
16 |
20 |
0 |
6 lbs. |
|
15-5-10 |
3-1-2 |
15 |
5 |
10 |
7 lbs. |
|
12-4-8 |
3-1-2 |
12 |
4 |
8 |
8 lbs. |
Table 2. Percent nitrogen in various nitrogen sources, and recommended rates of application for lawns.
|
Sources |
Percent nitrogen1 |
Pounds to apply per 1,000 sq. ft. |
Frequency of application |
|
Cottonseed meal (organic) |
6 |
16 |
60 days |
|
Processed sewage sludge (organic) |
6 |
16 |
60 days |
|
Ammonium nitrate (soluble) |
33 |
3 |
45-60 days |
|
Ammonium sulfate (soluble) |
21 |
5 |
45-60 days |
|
Ammonium phosphate (soluble) |
16 |
6 |
45-60 days |
|
Urea (soluble) |
45 |
2 |
45-60 days |
|
Ureaformaldehyde (slow-release) |
38 |
5 |
90-120 days |
|
IBDU (slow-release) |
31 |
7 |
90-120 days |